Best Roof Types for Florida Hurricanes

Published by Adjusterman LLC, a licensed Florida public adjusting firm. We don’t sell or earn commissions on anything listed here.

Updated September 23, 2026

Key takeaways

IBHS’s FORTIFIED Roof standard works with shingles, metal, tile or low-slope covers; what it changes is the deck nailing, a sealed roof deck and the roof edge.
For shingles, look for the highest wind ratings: ASTM D3161 Class F or ASTM D7158 Class H. For metal, tile and low-slope systems, look for tested design pressures that fit your site.
Florida’s state retrofit guide found mortar-set tile performs worst, and older shingle roofs fail far more often than new ones in moderate winds.
Every roof covering in Florida should carry a Florida or Miami-Dade product approval; the state wind mitigation form asks for the number.
A Florida insurer cannot refuse to write or renew a home solely because its roof is under 15 years old (s. 627.7011).

Ask which roof is “best” for a Florida hurricane and most people mean the covering: shingle, metal or tile. The research says the covering matters less than you might think. The Florida Division of Emergency Management’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide describes three vital parts of any roof: the covering that keeps the house dry, the sheathing and framing that hold the covering and the roof’s shape, and the connections that tie the roof to the walls. A premium covering on a poorly nailed deck still leaves the house open when the deck goes.

The stakes are high. The same state guide reports that after Hurricane Andrew, a National Association of Home Builders Research Center study found widespread roof damage seriously affected 77% of the homes surveyed, and that among homes hit by Hurricane Charley with enough damage to file a claim, 95% had some roof covering damage. It also notes that losing roof sheathing typically increases interior damage by a factor of 9.

So this list ranks the approach first, then the shape, then the coverings, with the test standard to ask for on each. None of it replaces an engineer or a licensed roofer looking at your house.

Florida roof options at a glance
Option	Wind test or standard to ask for	Watch out for
FORTIFIED Roof (any cover)	IBHS FORTIFIED Home standard, third-party evaluated	Must be built and evaluated to the standard to earn the designation
Hip roof shape	Recorded as “Hip Roof” on OIR-B1-1802	Non-hip features must be under 10% of the roof perimeter
Standing-seam metal	UL 580 and UL 1897 design pressure	Clip spacing and anchorage; panels can lift from the middle
High-wind asphalt shingles	ASTM D3161 Class F or ASTM D7158 Class H	Sealing time after install; aging in Florida heat
Fastened concrete or clay tile	ASTM C1568 uplift, site design pressure	Mortar-set tile, hip and ridge tiles, windborne tile debris
Exposed-fastener metal (5-V, rib)	UL 580 and UL 1897 design pressure	Screw pattern and condition
Stone-coated metal and metal tiles	Tested design pressure for the system	Hip and ridge pieces
Low-slope membrane or built-up	Tested design pressure for the system	Ponding, flashing, edges

How we put this list together

We ranked by how well each option is documented to hold up in wind, using the IBHS Roof 101 technical overview, the IBHS FORTIFIED Roof standard, and Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide, which draws on post-hurricane damage studies. We then noted what the Florida wind mitigation form (OIR-B1-1802) records about each, because that form is how roof features turn into insurance discounts.

We did not include prices or service-life numbers except where a source states them. Roofing costs vary widely by roof size, pitch, region and the market after a storm; get written quotes from licensed Florida roofing contractors. Nothing here is a product endorsement, and we earn nothing from any link.

The list

1. Any cover, built as a FORTIFIED Roof
Best for: The strongest overall result
Program
IBHS FORTIFIED Home
Works with
Shingles, metal, tile, composite, low slope
Key changes
Ring-shank deck nails, sealed roof deck, stronger edge
FORTIFIED is a voluntary construction and re-roofing program run by the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety. FORTIFIED Roof is designed to work with “just about any type of roof cover,” and focuses on the parts that fail first: it requires ring-shank nails in an enhanced pattern for the deck (IBHS testing shows this can double the uplift the deck resists), a sealed roof deck that IBHS says can reduce water intrusion by up to 95% if the cover blows off, and a wider drip edge with a fully adhered starter strip at the roof edge.
Covers still have to meet rigorous ratings: asphalt shingles must carry the highest wind ratings, and metal, tile and low-slope systems must be tested for site-specific design pressures. On the Florida wind mitigation form, a FORTIFIED Roof, Silver or Gold certificate can be used to validate several of the roof and opening attributes.
Consider asking for FORTIFIED at your next re-roof; the deck is only exposed for re-nailing and sealing while the old cover is off.
fortifiedhome.org
2. A hip roof shape, or a properly braced gable
Best for: New construction and additions
Wind mitigation form
Question 7, Roof Geometry
“Hip Roof” means
Non-hip features under 10% of the perimeter
Shape is a rated feature in Florida. The state wind mitigation form (OIR-B1-1802) asks whether the home has a hip roof, defined as one with no other roof shapes greater than 10% of the total roof perimeter. Everything else is “Other Roof” unless it is a qualifying flat roof on a building of five or more units.
Gable ends are the reason. The state’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide says gable end walls “can take a tremendous beating during a hurricane” because they are the highest walls on most houses and are often poorly built or connected; if not properly braced and anchored, they can collapse. Florida law directed the Building Commission to adopt gable-end bracing techniques for older site-built homes (s. 553.844). If you have gables, bracing them is the fix.
Consider a hip design if you are building or adding on; for an existing gable home, ask a contractor or engineer about gable-end bracing.
apps.floridadisaster.org
3. Standing-seam or snap-lock metal (concealed fastener)
Best for: Long spans, coastal homes wanting metal
Wind tests
UL 580, then UL 1897
UL 580 classes
Class 30, 60, 90
Coastal note (IBHS)
Aluminum resists corrosion better than steel
IBHS explains that metal roofs are tested as an assembly, from the deck up, to UL 580 and UL 1897, and the result is a design pressure rating that must suit the roof’s location, height, pitch and exposure (IBHS Roof 101). FORTIFIED requires that rating to be documented by a Florida Building Code product approval, an ICC-ES report, a Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance or a Texas Department of Insurance evaluation. IBHS also notes aluminum is lighter than steel and more corrosion resistant, which matters near salt water.
Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide observed that metal roofs seemed to perform better in the 2004 and 2005 hurricanes, but cautions that long-term experience is limited. Standing-seam strength starts with the clips, their anchorage and spacing; panels can lift in the middle and open the seams. The guide recommends an improved underlayment under any new metal roof as backup protection.
Consider asking the roofer for the product approval number and the design pressure your site requires, in writing, before signing.
ibhs.org
4. High-wind-rated asphalt shingles
Best for: Budget-conscious re-roofs
Wind ratings to ask for
ASTM D3161 Class F or ASTM D7158 Class H
Sealing time
1 to 2 weeks in warm weather (IBHS)
Shingle wind resistance is about the seal between each shingle and the one below it. IBHS describes the two test methods, ASTM D3161 and ASTM D7158, and FORTIFIED requires the highest ratings from either: Class F or Class H. IBHS also notes that new shingles are vulnerable until they seal, which manufacturers say can take one to two weeks in summer and longer in cooler conditions.
Age matters more for shingles than for any other cover. Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide reports that where gusts exceeded about 120 mph, 3 to 5 in 10 shingle roofs needed re-roofing regardless of age; in areas with 75 to 95 mph gusts, roofs more than about 10 years old failed at 1 to 2 in 10, while roofs under 5 years old failed at about 1 in 20 or less. It adds that Florida’s sun and heat shorten shingle life, and that the old standard 3-tab shingles were typically rated for only 15 years.
Consider lighter colors; the state guide notes they run cooler, though it says their long-term hurricane performance has not been systematically studied.
apps.floridadisaster.org
5. Mechanically fastened concrete or clay tile
Best for: Homes and HOAs committed to tile
Uplift test
ASTM C1568 (with C1569 or C1570)
Weakest installs (state guide)
Mortar-set tile
Tile becomes debris at
About 120 to 130 mph winds (state guide)
Tile is common in South Florida and many HOAs require it. The state Hurricane Retrofit Guide is candid: tiles are brittle, are likely to become windborne at speeds starting around 120 to 130 mph, and damage from a neighbor’s roof is more common than from your own. Mortar-set hip, ridge and eave tiles are the first to go, as gusts pass about 80 to 90 mph, and investigations of hurricane damage suggest mortar-set systems perform the worst.
Mechanically attached tile (nails or screws, per the manufacturer’s high-wind instructions, with hip and ridge tiles fastened to a ridge board) performs better. IBHS notes that before the 2002 code changes, tile was often set with mortar paddies, so an older tile roof may be the weaker type. Tile uplift is tested with ASTM C1568, compared against wind loads from ASTM C1569 or C1570.
Consider pairing a tile roof with rated opening protection; the state guide calls protecting your glass the smartest move for tile-roofed neighborhoods.
apps.floridadisaster.org
6. Exposed-fastener metal panels (5-V crimp, rib)
Best for: Simpler homes, outbuildings, rural properties
Type
Lapped panels, screwed through
Wind tests
UL 580 and UL 1897 design pressure
IBHS classifies 5-V, rib and tile-profile panels as exposed-fastener, lapped systems, with minimum slopes that depend on whether lap sealant is used. The state guide notes 5-V crimp panels are typically screwed directly to the roof, over an underlayment similar to a shingle roof’s, so if panels lift, the underlayment is easily damaged.
Performance comes down to the tested design pressure, the screw pattern for your site, and the condition of the screws and washers over time. Ask for the same documentation as any metal roof: a Florida product approval or Miami-Dade NOA showing the design pressure.
Consider an enhanced or self-adhered underlayment beneath exposed-fastener panels, as the state guide recommends for metal generally.
apps.floridadisaster.org
7. Stone-coated metal and metal tiles
Best for: The look of tile or shake with metal weight
IBHS class
Discontinuous metal roof system
Typical damage (state guide)
Often limited to hips and ridges
IBHS groups embossed metal shingles and stone-coated horizontal panels as discontinuous metal roof systems, installed in overlapping courses that resemble tile or shake. Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide notes metal tiles are typically screwed to the roof and that typical damage is frequently limited to the metal on the hips and ridges.
Ask for the system’s tested design pressure and product approval, and pay attention to how the hip and ridge trim is fastened.
Consider this if an HOA allows it and you want a tile look without tile’s brittleness.
ibhs.org
8. Low-slope membrane or built-up roofs (flat roofs)
Best for: Flat or nearly flat sections, additions, condos
Typical slope
Under about 2 in 12 (state guide)
FORTIFIED requirement
Tested site-specific design pressure
Membrane and built-up covers are used on very low-slope roofs, generally under about 2 inches of drop per 12 inches. The state guide warns that low-slope roofs are notorious for leaking because water runs off slowly, and its inspection checklist focuses on cracks, blisters, ponding, missing granules or gravel, and flashing at walls and penetrations.
FORTIFIED requires low-slope systems to be tested for site-specific design pressures, the same documentation to ask for on any flat section of a Florida roof.
Consider an annual inspection of edges and flashing; that is where wind gets under a membrane.
apps.floridadisaster.org

What Florida law requires when you re-roof

For site-built single-family homes, a roof replacement must include a secondary water barrier and strengthened or corrected roof-deck attachment; in the wind-borne debris region, homes insured or valued at $300,000 or more must also add roof-to-wall connection improvements, subject to cost limits in the statute (s. 553.844).
If an existing roof or section was built to the 2007 Florida Building Code or later and 25% or more of it is repaired or replaced, only the repaired or replaced portion must meet the current code (s. 553.844(5)).
Roofing is one of the product categories covered by Florida’s statewide product approval system (s. 553.842), and the wind mitigation form asks for the Florida or Miami-Dade approval number of each roof covering. Miami-Dade and Broward counties form the High-Velocity Hurricane Zone, which the form and the Florida Building Code treat separately.

How your roof affects insurance

The wind mitigation form records the Florida Building Code edition, roof covering type and product approval, roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections (toenails, clips, single wraps, double wraps or structural), roof shape and whether you have a sealed roof deck. Florida requires insurers to offer discounts or deductible credits for features shown to reduce wind losses (s. 627.0629). Insurers also may not refuse to issue or renew a homeowners policy solely because the roof is under 15 years old, and must allow an inspection before requiring replacement of an older roof (s. 627.7011). Some policies carry a separate roof deductible, capped at the lesser of 2% of Coverage A or 50% of the roof replacement cost, and it does not apply to hurricane roof losses (s. 627.701(10)).

Eligible homesteaded owners can get a free wind mitigation inspection through My Safe Florida Home, and qualifying low- and moderate-income owners of pre-2008 homes may get grants toward roof-deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections and secondary water resistance with a new covering, when the Legislature funds the program (s. 215.5586).

If the roof is damaged

A roof claim usually turns on the difference between storm damage and age or wear, and on whether a repair can match or whether code triggers a larger replacement. Photograph the roof and attic before every season. If an insurer’s roof estimate looks short, Adjusterman LLC reviews hurricane and wind claims and homeowners claims statewide, and our ranked list of hurricane claim public adjusters in Florida explains how to check any adjuster’s license. For preparation, see how to prepare your home before hurricane season.

General information, not engineering, legal or insurance advice. Confirm code requirements with your local building department and a licensed Florida roofing contractor. Adjusterman is not affiliated with, or endorsed by, IBHS, the Florida Division of Emergency Management, the Office of Insurance Regulation, My Safe Florida Home or any government agency.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most hurricane-resistant roof type in Florida?

No single cover wins on its own. IBHS’s FORTIFIED Roof standard works with shingles, metal, tile or low-slope covers and strengthens the deck nailing, seals the deck and reinforces the edges. Among covers, pick the highest tested wind rating for your site: Class F or H for shingles, and a documented design pressure for metal, tile or membrane.

Is metal better than tile for hurricanes?

Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide observed that metal roofs seemed to perform better in the 2004 and 2005 hurricanes but says long-term experience is limited. It also found mortar-set tile performs worst, while properly fastened tile does better. Installation and the tested design pressure matter as much as the material.

Does a new roof lower my insurance in Florida?

It can. The wind mitigation form (OIR-B1-1802) records the roof covering, deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections, roof shape and sealed roof deck, and Florida requires insurers to offer credits for qualifying features. Get a new inspection after re-roofing and send the form to your insurer.

Can my insurer drop me because of my roof’s age?

Not solely for age if the roof is under 15 years old. For an older roof, the insurer must allow an inspection first, and it may not refuse coverage solely for age if the inspection shows at least 5 years of useful life remaining (s. 627.7011).

What is the 25% roof rule in Florida?

If a roof or roof section was built to the 2007 Florida Building Code or later and 25% or more is repaired or replaced, only the repaired or replaced portion must meet the current code (s. 553.844(5)).

Sources

Adjusterman LLC, FL DFS Public Adjusting Firm License #W913130 · Michael Klavan, FL DFS Public Adjuster License #P151443. Public adjusters do not provide legal advice.

Best Roof Types for Florida Hurricane Resistance

Key takeaways

How we put this list together

The list

1. Any cover, built as a FORTIFIED Roof

2. A hip roof shape, or a properly braced gable

3. Standing-seam or snap-lock metal (concealed fastener)

4. High-wind-rated asphalt shingles

5. Mechanically fastened concrete or clay tile

6. Exposed-fastener metal panels (5-V crimp, rib)

7. Stone-coated metal and metal tiles

8. Low-slope membrane or built-up roofs (flat roofs)