Published by Adjusterman LLC, a licensed Florida public adjusting firm. We don’t sell or earn commissions on anything listed here.
Updated September 23, 2026
Key takeaways
- Impact windows and doors protect around the clock with nothing to deploy; every shutter type depends on someone putting it up in time.
- Porous shutters block debris but let wind pressure reach the glass, so the state guide says to use them only over pressure-rated windows and doors.
- Florida law bars selling a product as hurricane or impact protection unless it holds a state or local product approval (s. 553.842).
- The wind mitigation form scores the weakest protected opening in the house, so one unprotected window can cost you the opening protection credit.
- Plywood is the cheapest option, but the state guide says 1/2" plywood can be penetrated by the standard test missile below 27 mph.
Windows and doors are one of the main ways a hurricane gets inside a house. The Florida Division of Emergency Management calls protecting the areas where wind can enter the most important precaution you can take, and its Hurricane Retrofit Guide explains why: a broken window or door lets wind pressurize the house, which can blow out windows on the far side or push the roof sheathing off, and lets in far more water than most people imagine.
This guide compares the seven protection options Florida homeowners actually choose between: impact windows and doors, roll-down shutters, accordion shutters, storm panels, fabric screens, colonial and Bahama shutters, and plywood. For each we note how it works, what the state guide says about its weak points, and where it lands on the Florida wind mitigation form that insurers use for discounts.
| Option | Deploy before a storm? | Porous or non-porous | Best possible form level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Impact windows and doors | No, always in place | Non-porous | A or B, if approved and documented |
| Roll-down shutters | Yes, crank or motor, often from inside | Non-porous unless built out and open at the sides | A or B, if approved and documented |
| Accordion shutters | Yes, slide closed, sometimes from inside | Non-porous unless built out and open at the sides | A or B, if approved and documented |
| Storm panels (metal or clear) | Yes, carried and mounted | Usually non-porous on tracks with closures | A or B, if approved and documented |
| Fabric screens and panels | Yes, unless a permanent roll or accordion system | Non-porous | A or B, if approved and documented |
| Colonial and Bahama shutters | Yes, closed and secured, usually from outside | Depends on solid backing | A or B, if approved and documented |
| Plywood | Yes, carried and mounted | Generally non-porous if one sheet covers the opening | C, only if it meets the FBC 2007 table |
How we put this list together
We relied on the Florida Division of Emergency Management’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide, whose openings pages and shutter selection matrix are based on hurricane damage investigations and testing, and on the Office of Insurance Regulation’s Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form (OIR-B1-1802, Rev. 04/26), which defines the opening protection levels insurers apply. Product approval rules come from Florida Statutes s. 553.842 and the state and Miami-Dade approval databases.
We ordered the list by protection with the least effort on storm day, not by price. The state guide’s shutter matrix does list per-square-foot prices, but they are not dated, so we left them out: get current written quotes from licensed installers, and check current prices for DIY materials. We earn nothing from any link and name no brands.
The list
1. Impact-resistant windows and doors
Best for: Owners who may not be home, or cannot lift panels
- Protection
- 24/7, nothing to deploy
- Type
- Non-porous
- Relative cost (state guide)
- About 3x the cheapest code-compliant window
Impact windows and doors look like ordinary ones but use laminated glass in heavier frames. Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide notes that when the standard 2x4 test missile hits, the glass breaks but the missile does not get through the laminated layer, so the opening stays closed. Their big advantage is that nothing has to happen before a storm, which matters for second homes, older owners and anyone who travels in season.
The trade-offs, per the state guide: cost (it puts impact windows at about three times the cost of the least expensive code-compliant windows, and impact sliding doors at about four times, though only about 30% more than premium windows from the same maker), and replacing broken impact glass after a storm can be costly. North of about Interstate 4, where insulated glass is common, the guide says impact units may be a poor choice for some homes because pressure can break the insulated seals and the unlaminated outer pane breaks easily.
Consider impact units on openings that are hard to shutter (upper floors, large sliders), even if you shutter the rest.
apps.floridadisaster.org2. Roll-down (roll-up) shutters
Best for: Convenience on storm day
- Operation
- Manual crank or pull, or motorized
- From inside?
- Can be, on any window or door type
- Wide openings
- Need storm bars (state guide)
Roll-down shutters live in a hood above the opening and come down in tracks. The state guide describes them as mid to high priced depending on whether they are manual or motorized, and notes they can be operated from inside, outside, by remote or automatically, on any type of window or door. On wide spans, vertical storm bars keep the slats from pulling out of the tracks.
Their weakness is water. The guide includes photos from Hurricane Ike, with winds of at most 115 mph, where wind-driven rain got behind roll-down shutters and leaked in through the window joints. Hoods mounted under the eaves are visible; hidden-mount hoods built into the eave cost more.
Consider motorized units with a manual override, so they still close if the power goes out.
apps.floridadisaster.org3. Accordion shutters
Best for: Balconies, lanais and wide glass on a mid budget
- Operation
- Slides side to side, permanently attached
- From inside?
- Only with some door and window types
- Relative cost (state guide)
- Mid-priced
Accordion shutters fold against the sides of the opening and slide closed. The state guide calls them mid-priced and notes they can be operated from inside with in-swing or sliding glass doors and slider, single-hung or double-hung windows, but not with out-swing doors, casements, some jalousies or fixed windows. They are also effective for closing off large patios and lanais.
As with roll-downs, the guide warns that shutters built from individual panels can let wind-driven rain get behind them. Built-out installations that are not closed at the sides can become porous, which matters if the windows behind them are not pressure-rated.
Consider accordions for the one exit you want to be able to open from inside; the state guide stresses keeping an escape route.
apps.floridadisaster.org4. Storm panels: steel, aluminum and clear polycarbonate
Best for: Lowest-cost approved system for ground-floor openings
- Relative cost (state guide)
- Lowest-cost category of manufactured shutters
- Deploy time
- As little as 5 minutes per window with permanent anchors
- Clearance to glass
- About 3 to 4 inches for lighter panels
Corrugated metal panels, overlapped across the opening on tracks or studs, are the classic Florida shutter. The state’s shutter selection matrix and openings pages put them in the lowest cost category of manufactured shutters, and say that once permanent anchors are installed, a window can take as little as 5 minutes. Clear or translucent polycarbonate panels cost more but let light in; the guide suggests mixing in a few only where the manufacturer has tested that combination.
The downsides: panels must be stored, carried and mounted before the storm, which is hard above the first story; lighter panels bend on impact and can break the glass unless there are about 3 to 4 inches between panel and glass; and panels can corrode if stored damp or on a concrete floor. Track systems closed at the top are non-porous and faster to deploy.
Consider panels for the ground floor and a permanent system for upper floors, the combination the state guide suggests to control cost.
apps.floridadisaster.org5. Fabric screens and fabric panels
Best for: Big glass walls, odd shapes and lanai enclosures
- Material (state matrix)
- Polyester weave with PVC coating
- Weight
- Much lighter than metal panels
- Clearance to glass
- 1 foot or more (state matrix)
Fabric systems use high-strength flexible fabric anchored above and below the opening, or rolled into a permanent hood. The state guide lists their advantages: they take repeated debris hits with little damage, need far less storage than rigid panels, can cover huge spans or a whole lanai without extra framing, and even after the glass behind them breaks, they seal the opening against pressurizing the house.
Their weakness is flexibility. The matrix warns that a heavy impact causes significant deflection, likely breaking the glass unless there is a foot or more of separation between fabric and glass, which is why many installations anchor to the ground or the eaves. Some fabric roll-down versions sit close to the glass and share that risk.
Consider fabric where you have large sliders or a screened lanai you would otherwise leave unprotected.
apps.floridadisaster.org6. Colonial (hinged) and Bahama (awning) shutters
Best for: Curb appeal and historic districts
- Relative cost (state guide)
- Among the highest priced
- Operation
- Usually from outside, with extra hardware
- Porosity
- Non-porous only with a solid backing
Colonial shutters swing closed from the sides; Bahama shutters prop open like awnings and give shade year-round. The state guide lists both among the highest-priced systems, usually closed from outside with added hardware or storm bars, which means a ladder for upper floors. Many rated models are non-porous because of a solid backing behind the louvers; open louvers let wind pass freely and are porous.
The guide is blunt about old units: the vast majority of old Bahama shutters are almost completely ineffective for anything but shade, are poorly attached and too thin to stop debris, and can themselves be torn off to become debris. If yours pre-date the current code, check for a product approval before counting on them.
Consider decorative shutters on the front elevation and a lower-cost approved system on the rest, as the guide’s examples show owners doing.
apps.floridadisaster.org7. Plywood
Best for: Emergency or budget protection only
- FDEM minimum
- Properly secured 5/8" plywood
- Form level
- C, only if it meets FBC 2007 Table 1609.1.2
- OSB (state guide)
- Needs to be about 1/3 thicker than plywood
Plywood is the least expensive option and is sold everywhere. FDEM’s own guidance lists “properly secured 5/8" plywood” as an acceptable covering. But the state’s do-it-yourself shutter guide warns that even 1/2" plywood can be penetrated by the 9-pound 2x4 test missile at under 27 mph, that it takes much thicker plywood to match approved factory shutters, and that OSB must be about a third thicker than plywood for the same impact resistance. Panels are heavy, warp when wet and may need replacing after a few storms.
Installation is where plywood fails. The guide says re-nailing into the same holes can cut the attachment strength by 50% or more, and recommends permanent anchors. On the wind mitigation form, plywood or OSB counts only as Level C, and only if it meets Table 1609.1.2 of the 2007 Florida Building Code; the state guide cautions that insurers may not give a discount for wood panels at all, so ask yours.
Consider plywood as a stopgap while you save for an approved system, and pre-cut, label and anchor it before the season.
apps.floridadisaster.org
Check the product approval before you buy
Florida’s statewide product approval system covers windows, exterior doors, shutters, skylights and impact protective systems, and the law says a product may not be advertised or sold as hurricane, windstorm or windborne-debris protection unless it is approved under s. 553.842 or the local approval process in s. 553.8425 (s. 553.842). You can look a product up in the Florida Building Commission product approval search or, for Miami-Dade Notices of Acceptance, the county’s Product Control search. Miami-Dade’s Product Control Section reviews windows, exterior doors, skylights, shutters, roofing and other envelope products, and its search separates High-Velocity Hurricane Zone approvals (the zone the wind mitigation form defines as Miami-Dade and Broward counties) from the rest.
The state guide adds two practical points: most Florida cities and counties require a permit for shutter or impact window and door installation, and a product must be installed exactly per its approval (fastener type, spacing, embedment and edge distance) to perform as tested and to qualify for any discount.
How opening protection earns an insurance discount
Florida requires insurers to include discounts, credits or deductible reductions for features that reduce windstorm loss, and opening protection is named in the statute (s. 627.0629). Proof comes from question 9 of the OIR-B1-1802 wind mitigation form, which classifies the weakest protection on any glazed opening:
- Level A: products in the Florida or Miami-Dade approval system tested for cyclic pressure and the 9-pound large missile (Miami-Dade PA/TAS 201, 202 and 203, ASTM E1886 and E1996, or SSTD 12; ANSI/DASMA 115 for garage doors).
- Level B: approved products tested with a 4 to 8 pound large missile.
- Level C: plywood or OSB meeting Table 1609.1.2 of the 2007 Florida Building Code.
- Level N: coverings that cannot be verified, including systems that look like A or B but have no documentation.
- Level X: one or more glazed openings with no protection.
Because the form rates the weakest opening, every window, entry door, slider, skylight and garage door counts, and openings that need repair disqualify the credit altogether. Keep the product approval numbers, invoices and permit for every opening; the form requires a photo or document for each attribute. Eligible homesteaded owners can get a free inspection through My Safe Florida Home, and qualifying applicants may get grants toward exterior doors, garage doors, windows and skylights, where the program may require all openings to be done (s. 215.5586).
Safety notes from the state guide
- Stay away from windows during a hurricane, even protected ones. The guide shows a shuttered, code-rated window that blew in from pressure alone.
- Keep at least one exit you can open quickly from inside; do not leave outside-mounted shutters on egress openings unless the room has two exits.
- Order professionally installed shutters in the off-season; lead times and installation backlogs are among the biggest problems.
When openings fail anyway
A broken window or slider lets in wind-driven rain that soaks drywall, floors and contents, and that interior water is where hurricane claims most often get disputed. Photograph your protection in place before the storm and the openings afterward. If your insurer’s estimate looks short, Adjusterman LLC reviews hurricane claims and water damage claims across Florida, and our ranked list of hurricane claim public adjusters in Florida explains how to verify any adjuster’s license. For the rest of your checklist, see how to prepare your home before hurricane season.
Frequently asked questions
Are impact windows better than hurricane shutters?
They are more convenient, because nothing has to be deployed before a storm, and they are non-porous. Approved shutters can offer comparable debris protection for less money but depend on someone installing them in time. Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide notes impact windows typically cost about three times as much as basic code-compliant windows, and broken impact glass can be costly to replace.
Do hurricane shutters lower insurance in Florida?
They can. Florida requires insurers to offer credits for opening protection, and the OIR-B1-1802 wind mitigation form scores the weakest protected opening. Approved, documented systems on every glazed opening can reach Level A or B; one unprotected window drops the rating.
Does plywood count as hurricane protection for insurance?
The wind mitigation form records plywood or OSB as Level C only if it meets Table 1609.1.2 of the 2007 Florida Building Code. Florida’s Hurricane Retrofit Guide cautions that insurers may not discount wood panels, so check with your insurer.
How do I check if shutters or windows are approved in Florida?
Search the product in the Florida Building Commission product approval database or, for a Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance, the county’s Product Control search. Florida law bars selling a product as hurricane or impact protection without an approval under s. 553.842 or s. 553.8425.
What is the difference between porous and non-porous shutters?
Porous shutters have open areas of more than about 5 to 10% of the opening, so they stop debris but let wind pressure reach the window. The state guide says to use them only over pressure-rated windows and doors. Non-porous shutters help keep the house from pressurizing even if the glass behind them breaks.
Related guides
Sources
- Florida Division of Emergency Management, Planning for Your Home
- Florida Hurricane Retrofit Guide: Openings
- Florida Hurricane Retrofit Guide: Professionally Installed Shutters
- Florida Hurricane Retrofit Guide: Do-it-Yourself Shutters
- Florida Hurricane Retrofit Guide: Shutter Selection Matrix (PDF)
- Florida OIR, Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26)
- Florida OIR, Wind Mitigation Resources
- Florida Building Commission, Product Approval
- Florida Building Commission, Product Approval Search
- Miami-Dade County, Product Approval (Product Control Section)
- Miami-Dade County, Product Control Search
- My Safe Florida Home (Florida Department of Financial Services)
- Fla. Stat. s. 553.842 (2026), Product evaluation and approval
- Fla. Stat. s. 553.844 (2026), Windstorm loss mitigation; requirements for roofs and opening protection
- Fla. Stat. s. 627.0629 (2026), Residential property insurance; rate filings
- Fla. Stat. s. 627.711 (2026), Notice of premium discounts for hurricane loss mitigation; uniform mitigation verification inspection form
- Fla. Stat. s. 215.5586 (2026), My Safe Florida Home Program
Adjusterman LLC, FL DFS Public Adjusting Firm License #W913130 · Michael Klavan, FL DFS Public Adjuster License #P151443. Public adjusters do not provide legal advice.